FALL WInter 2020
Wednesday, 22nd, January 2020
Kim Jones delves into the archives for Dior Men’s
fall-winter 2020 collection
Every season of the esteemed French label Dior is influenced by a selected artist to inform the garments and accessories.
Held in a massive tent on Place de la Concorde on Friday, January 17th, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week the Fall/Winter 2020 show was a work of Dior men’s Creative director Kim Jones, who got inspiration for the flamboyant get-up from Judy Blame. The collection celebrates brand’s timeless elegance and pays tribute to the legendary British stylist, artist and taste maker Judy Blame who passed away in 2018.
Jones met Blame when he was just 16, and became friends. “It’s things Judy would have loved,” Jones said in a preview. “I was sort of looking at it through his eyes.”
Kim Jones’s first step into the new decade at Dior Men was a heralding vision: a pearl-gray satin swing coat with oversize fringed rosette at the collar, paired with a paisley-
Blame’s taste for makeshift craftsmanship — including accessories adorned with safety pins and scrap metal — informs the safety-pin jewelry glittered from coat lapels, zips gleam from berets, trench coats and bomber jackets, which spliced open at the front and back in an elegant flourish.
embroidered silk turtleneck sweater and narrow pinstriped trousers. He had one white evening-gloved hand stuck into his pocket. He delved into the house archive of 50's haute couture—studying the silhouettes and embroideries—and came up with a superbly elegant collection.
A distressed sweater was paired with slick suit pants, while a tailored jacket was topped off with a coin-embellished scarf. Flowing silk tunics reprised historic Dior patterns, including newspaper print, all were layered under everything from suit jackets with inset lapels to sweaters.
It was a clever illustration of Blame’s talent for transforming a look with a simple twist and felt like club kids and city bankers swapped there wardrobe.
Sleek coats, contrast-lapel blazers and pleated slacks, worn-out sweaters poking out from beneath trim sport coats, shades of gray and blue, plays on volume, and pleats and draping that reference and tailoring techniques Accessories evoke the mid-20th century, a turning point in fashion history. Shoes have a classic allure, reflecting the exceptional leather craftsmanship that represents another aspect of Dior’s heritage.
A silver-metal embroidered coat having an array of glistening feathers, often stuck into one of Blame’s bespoke hats, inspired by a piece in the Christian Dior haute couture archive, shone unforgettably at the finale. If it felt like the honoring of the energy of a lost friend, it also pointed to a future that has only just begun.
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